Day 1- Sit-Stay
Day 2 - Dont Pull
Day 3 - Recall
Course Intro (1:18)
Meet Your Instructors (0:52)
Before You Start Training
Week 4 Available 5/7
Day 1 - Lead Walking(3:26)START
Day 2 - Fetch(5:29)START
Day 4 - Spin(3:22)START
Day 5 - Recall(3:14)START
Week 5 Available 5/7
Day 2 - Settle(5:05)START
Day 3 - Fetch(5:45)START
Day 5 - Recall(7:08)START
Week 6 Available 5/7
Day 2 - Spin(4:15)START
Day 4 - Settle(7:33)START
Whats Next Available 5/7
Day 4 - Chill
Day 5 -Leave It
Transcript Video 1 - Sit Stay:
So, this week, we’re going to be teaching a ‘sit’. The ‘sit’ is super useful because it can keep your dog in a position, whilst you remove something dangerous from the environment. It’s also really good manners because it means your dog can sit and wait, whilst you let someone into your house, for example, before going to greet them.
Now, the first thing that we’re going to need to teach is we’re going to need to teach the position. So, what I’m going to do is I’m going to get a bunch of treats in my hands here, and then I’m going to get one of those treats between my fingers, which is what I’m going to train with. Now, what I’m going to do is I’m going to pretend there’s a piece of thread tied on this treat to Ella’s nose. So, as I lift a treat, it’s going to lift her head backwards to her back, and her bum’s going to hit the floor. As her bum hits the floor, we’re going to mark ‘yes’ and I’m going to feed not once, not twice, but three times, teaching her that it pays to stay there before releasing her by throwing a treat off to the side. Okay, so let’s have a look at how that looks.
(1:05) [Jo-Rosie throws treat to the side Ella goes to eat it]
(1:09) [Ella returns to Jo-Rosie who holds a treat up to Ella’s nose, lifts the treat at which point Ella sits. Jo-Rosie marks, rewards with three treats and throws one off to the side] Okay, so go away and practice that a couple of times.
(1:16) [repeats exercise]
(1:29) Now, when your dog gets really good at this, [‘sit’, marks, one, two, three and one off to the side]
(1:40) [repeats exercise] we’re going to start bringing in that ‘sit’ cue. Now that comes in first before we do the lift. So, keep your hand poised ready,
(1:52) ‘Sit’, lift, feed, feed, feed and if you can I want you to bring that marker in. So, I will show you how that looks [throws treat to the side for Ella]
(2:02) ‘Sit’, yes, feed, feed, feed, one off to the side. And this week during your practice,
(2:12) ‘Sit’, yes, feed, feed, feed, one off to the side
(2:22) ‘Sit’, yes, feed, feed, feed, one off to the side
What I want you to do is start adding a little bit of distance between those treats as well as starting to remove your hand altogether, so that you can start to go
(2:37) ‘Sit’, yes, one… two… three …one off to the side. And if you get to that, then you are smashing it.
Transcript Video 2 - Lead Walking:
Hi, so today we are going to start to actually road test this loose-lead system. A little secret: one of my dogs, Archie, when I first got him, he used to pull like a tank, and I have to admit that this system really saved me. Even though, in all honesty, it’s pretty boring to train. But it’s one of those things that if you’re consistent with it, if you do it every single time, then your dogs will absolutely smash it. I’ve never met a dog that I haven’t been able to train to loose-lead walk with this particular system.
So, key things, and I think the first thing that you’re going to do here is change where your lead setting is. So, you want to take the lead off the dog. If it’s on the back of the harness, or if you’ve got a harness that’s only got one adjustment you want to move the lead from the harness onto the collar. Now, once you’ve done this, you’re in training mode, which means door opens, you move the dog behind you, and then you start praising the dog for keeping their front feet behind your feet and marking and rewarding eye contact, feeding your bum cheek—feeding behind you.
Right, so now we’ve definitely remembered what the system is, how are we going to do it? What I’m not going to ask you to do is from now on every single walk needs to be a training walk. It’s not realistic. We actually need to enjoy our time, too. So, instead what we’re going to do is we’re going to look at the walk and think about what markers it has. Are you walking somewhere with trees, or with cars or with particular landmarks, like certain colour houses? Or if you’re walking in a field, you can make your own markers. So, you can use jumpers, or you can use items that you’ve brought with you to put down. Here, I’ve put down cones, which makes it really, really clear. Now, where those markers are, we are going to do interval training
So, we’re going to do intervals where we do a little bit of loose lead on the right adjustment on the collar, stop at the end, change the adjustment, a little bit of relaxed, leisure mode, and then clip it back on, a little bit of loose lead. We’re going to do this for the whole walk, which means that really 50% of your walk is going to end up being training loose-lead, which is just about perfect right now.
And over the week, every single day, what I’m hoping you’re all going to do, is slowly change those markers so that more and more of the on-lead part of your walk is done on a loose lead. Eventually, your dog is just going to generalise that actually whenever they’re on the lead this is their job, their job is to walk by the side of you and give you decent eye contact. Now, don’t forget those little bonus balls if something happens that the dog’s likely to find distracting, remember to also feed this. You don’t need to mark it with your ‘yes’ unless your dog gives you eye contact, but if they stay on a loose lead, remember to feed them for that too. Okay, so let’s have a little look about what this is going to look like.
Right now, what I’m going to do is I’m going to change Ella’s lead, because at the moment it’s on the back of her harness, and I’m going to put it on the front of her harness. Then what I’m going to do is I’m going to turn around, and all the time that there are yellow cones there I’m going to train, I’m going to use that system whereby as long as her feet are behind me, praise, praise, praise, when she gives me eye contact, I’m going to mark and feed, if she moves in front of me I’m going to use my hand to open that door and put her back behind me again. And I’m going to do that, all the while the yellow cones are there. When we get to the end of the yellow cones, I’m going to change the lead. I’m going to put it on the back of her, and we’re going to meander back across the field in leisure mode, letting her sniff and do whatever she wants. Hit the yellow cones again, changing the lead again. Don’t forget to change that lead! It’s really, really important because if we do it like this with interval training, it’s going to hammer home to the dogs that when you change that lead, that’s when the game changes. That’s when they can earn treats, and that’s when the loose-lead walking really comes into focus. So, let’s have a look.
(3:57) So don’t forget, the first thing we are going to do is we’re going to clip onto training mode.
(4:04) Then what we’re going do, is we’re going to put the dog via an open door into the right position [lures, marks, praises and rewards]. Feeding because I got a bit of eye contact there. I want the lead to be about knee height which it is here. So, then of we go.
(4:20) [praises with the word ‘Good’]
(4:22) [praises with the word ‘Good’]
(4:23) [marks with the word ‘yes’, rewards and continues walking and praising]
(4:28) [marks with the word ‘yes’, rewards and continues walking and praising]
(4:36) [marks with the word ‘yes’, rewards and continues walking and praising]
(4:45) I’m going to change her onto leisure mode [changes the position of the lead on the harness, walks around in leisure mode]
(4:53) Now, pop her onto training mode again. Open door.
(5:03) [marks and rewards for eye contact, continues to verbally praise as they are walking]
(5:20) [stops at the end and cues Ella to sit] And what a perfect session. [praises Ella]
So, it really can be that easy, and I want you to practise this, this week. So, 50% of your walks think about marker posts that you can use and really nail it so that your dogs end up with the best loose lead in town.
Transcript Video 3 - Recall:
So, for this week for the recall session, what we’re going to do is we’re going to start adding distance. The dog should already know that when you break that whistle, food is going to come from your hand. So, we’re going to start to ask the dog to go away in order so that we can practice him running towards us when he hears the whistle and then getting those treats. To do this, what I’m going to suggest that you do is get a fistful of treats like this (0:31). And then you’re going to put one of those treats in between your forefinger and your thumb, and you’re going to show it to your dog.
(0:38) [shows treat to Blake] You’re going to really obviously throw it. As soon as they finish [Jo blows the whistle, Blake recalls and takes the treats from Jo’s hand] There you go.
(0:50) So I’m going to show you again. We’re going to put the treat between our forefinger and our thumb like this; we’re going to show it to the dog, we’re going to lob it, finished. [Jo blows the whistle, and Blake recalls and takes a treat from Jo’s hand] He is going to come and take food out of your hand.
Now, the reason that we want him to be taking food out your hand is that essentially what we’re going to do is we’re going to merge the hand target and the recall so that when the dog hears the recall, they immediately come and they place their nose on your hand. That’s going to make it really clear for the dog what you’re expecting when they hear that noise, and also it’s going to make it much easier for you to train because you’re going to know what you want your dog to do. Otherwise, sometimes, you end up with this sticky situation whereby if the dog kind of comes towards you but they are still quite far away from you, you’re not sure whether or not you should reward that or not. So, this makes it really clear. We want contact with the hand and in order to get that to start with we are going to always have our hand filled with food. So, let’s see that one more time.
(1:46) We’re going to have a fist full of food, treat between forefinger and thumb. Show it to the dog [shows it to Blake] We’re going to lob it and then… [Jo blows the whistle, and Blake recalls to her hand] He’s going to get it from there.
During this week, the other things that I want you to think about is, I want you to think about when your dog is naturally away from you. So don’t choose really, really difficult things, but if your dog’s just having a little chew over there or he happens to be sitting in a different room, and you have your whistle and your treats handy, don’t be afraid to practice. So, you don’t always have to be throwing a treat away in order to get this behaviour. You can wait for something naturally that occurs where the dog is further away from you and practice like that as well. Good luck.
Transcript Video 4 - Settle:
So, this week, we’re also going to start teaching the dog a ‘settle’. So ‘settle’ is a little bit different from down. It’s a bit more comfortable for the dog. It’s that position, not quite like a Sphinx where they pop on to their hip instead and find a position where they can settle down. Now, nine out of 10 times when we ask our dogs to lie down, what we actually want is for them to be calm and for them to stay where they are and chill out, which is why we train the ‘settle’ as opposed to the ‘down’ in these sorts of classes.
What we are going to do to train that is, to start with, we’re going to use a lure. Now, I want you to get your dog’s bed or something that’s really comfortable for your dog like a cushion so that we know that when we are asking them to lie down, they’re going to be comfortable. The last thing we want to do is ask them to do it on a hard surface or a cold surface because the dog is less likely to actually perform the behaviour that we’re trying to get them to do. We don’t want to put obstacles in the way of our dog.
So, to lure this behaviour we’re going to have to use a particular mechanic, and it’s going to go paws–shoulder–mark–treat. Okay?
(1:14) So, let’s have a look at that. We’re going to pull the treat. We’ve got it here. I’m going to put it on my dog’s nose. I’m going to pull it in between his paws to start with. (1:21) I’m then going to move it around towards his shoulder, and as he pops his hip like he did there, I’m going to mark ‘yes’ and then I’m going to feed him. And I want to practice that a few times.
Now, in order to practice this a few times, actually, we don’t really want to get the dog on and off the bed loads and loads of times because it’s not going to be very energy efficient for them and they’re going to start thinking that the work isn’t quite worth it for the food. So instead, most of the reps that we do will just pull the dog back into that sphinx down.
(1:52) To do that we’re going to find his nose and we’re just going to pull it forward a little bit so that he straightens up. There we go.
(1:58) And then we’re going to put it back round to his shoulder, [‘yes, good boy’] mark him when he pops the hip and do it again. And we’re going to do that a couple of times. Each time that he pops his hip like that, I’m feeding him three times to make sure that he knows it pays to stay there.
(2:15) So, pulling him back forward again. [praises Archie] Back around to the shoulder, [marks with ‘good’] feed, feed, feed.
Now, I’ve done that three times I’m going to get him off the bed, and I’m going to go again. To do that I’m just going to toss a treat off the side of the bed, and then off we go again.
(2:30) So, between the paws, to the shoulder, [marks] mark when he pops that hip and feed, feed, feed.
Now, when the dog gets really good at this, we can stop using that shoulder feeding and, instead, we can bring in a word. So, to do this, what we’re going to do is we are going to remove that hand,
(2:44) [Jo throws a treat to the side and Archie gets it] and instead, when the dog stands up on his bed, we are going to say ‘settle’. We’re going to bring our hand, and we’re going to wait for that hip to pop, feed, feed, feed.
(3:00) If your dog doesn’t do it pretty quickly, then go back to luring. Lure it a few more times and then drop out the lure and bring in the word.
Again, if he doesn’t do it again, give it a few more times. Some dogs need a lot more repetition of the hand going to the right place than others before they really, really get what we want them to do. As soon as they get what we want them to do we can bring in that word ‘settle’, and instead, just ask them to settle and then hey presto you’ve got the exact position that you are looking for.
(3:29) Let’s go. [repeats exercise without luring, marks, rewards and praises]
Transcript Video 5 - Leave It:
So, we’re going to start to train your dogs this week, one of the most useful things they are ever going to learn which is a ‘leave it’. A ‘leave it’ is going to get you out of so many sticky situations. When your dog thinks about chasing something that he shouldn’t chase or eating something that he shouldn’t eat.
And what we are going to train the dogs, is that when we say the word ‘leave it’ they leave the thing they want and instead, they give us eye contact.
Now, how we’re going to train this is we’re going to put a piece of food under our foot, and we are going to ask the dog as soon as the food goes under the foot, (0:39) and we’re going to say to the dog ‘leave it’.
Now, as soon as they hit, as soon as they stop looking for that food and instead, give us eye contact, we’re going to feed them with our hand, okay (0:50)?
(0:54) So, food goes under the foot, we say ‘leave it’, dog gives us eye contact, we feed from the hand.
And I want you to practice this a couple of times. Now your dog might forget that there’s food under the foot. So, every couple of repetitions you’re going to lift your foot, and you’re going to show him a bit of food, and you’re going to stuff that underneath your foot again (1:11). Just to really layer at home ‘there’s food under their mate’.
Every time you do this, you’re going to say to him ‘leave it’ as the food goes under, wait for the eye contact, give him a treat from your hand.
(1:27) Now, as your dog gets better and better at doing this, you’re going to start to relax your foot a little bit, and like a lever, it’s going to lift. So, as your foot lifts, if the dog doesn’t go for it, we’re going to mark ‘yes’, and we’re going to feed him.
(1:44) If he thinks about it and looks at it and then gives you eye contact again, we’re going to mark ‘yes’, and we’re going to feed it.
(1:50) If he goes for the food under the foot we’re going to say ‘leave it’ again, put our foot back down on that food to stop him from being able to get it, and then when he gives us eye contact, we’re going to mark, and we are going to feed him again. So, let’s have a little look at what that looks like.
(2:12) [puts food under foot] ‘leave it’ [marks and rewards]
(2:18) [praises, marks and rewards]
(2:23) [marks and rewards]
(2:25) [Lifts foot up a bit, marks and rewards]
(2:27) [puts food under foot again] ‘leave it’ [marks and rewards]
(2:34) [marks and rewards]
(2:36) [puts food under foot again] ‘leave it’ [marks and rewards]
(2:39) [removes foot from food, praises and rewards]
(2:45) [Blake looks at food] ‘leave it’ [praises and rewards]
(2:45) [praises and rewards]
(2:50) ‘leave it’ [puts food next to the rest on the floor, waits for a sec, marks and rewards for eye contact]
(2:53) [marks and rewards]
(2:56) [puts food down on floor] ‘leave it’ [praises and rewards]
(3:04) [praises and rewards]
(3:07) [marks and rewards]
(3:09) [puts food on the floor] ‘leave it’ [marks and rewards]
(3:13) [marks, rewards and praises]
(3:18) [cues Blake to get all the food on the floor]